The Upside… Downside of Peru!
I’ll begin this post by saying that my love for Peru goes well beyond the repeated refrain of “amazing food… amazing sunsets”. There is plenty of “upside-downside” to Peru’s personal traits, yet she possesses some of the richest cultural, historical and geographical treasures on the planet. A true explorer will overlook a country’s faults… in much the same way we accept imperfections in friendship and love. That makes her well worth your time to get acquainted.
Locally, Lima’s city center, Plaza de Armas, Barranco, Chinatown and Milaflores were places I frequented. I highly recommend you add those destinations to your travel itinerary.
Street vendors of all ages line the major arteries and side streets in the heart of the city. They sell some of the most peculiar goods and services, including one ‘shoe’ cleaner who will disinfect the soles of your shoes for a few centimos. Avoid all street food that could spoil in the heat.
Motorized street carts loaded with various fruits and vegetables are found on almost every street corner. Drivers hooked up to a loudspeaker shout out a nonstop sales pitch to potential customers. The sound is deafening as you walk by one of these barkers. Cross the street and receive a similar experience.
Further down the coast it was Ica, Tacama’s vineyard and Paracas’ wildlife and landscape that captivated my visual sense. By far, that was my favorite weekend.
Unless your taste buds were hankerin’ for some roasted guinea pig, melt-in-your-mouth octopus or fresh caught sea bass, the food is relatively inexpensive. Chicken & mixed veggies, a side of rice and wonton soup at a Chifa restaurant in Chinatown is barely distinguishable from Chinese take-out at home. However, at $4.50 U.S.D. for the entire meal, it’s absolutely the best buy for your dinner dollar.
Once you get use to UBER drivers weaving in and out of traffic at high speeds with countless near misses, you’ll be fine. Traffic signs and signals are often disregarded. Just remember to buckle up. The upside? Uber rides are incredibly inexpensive here – probably two-thirds less than what you’d pay in the states. Be sure to upgrade to ‘comfort’ otherwise you’ll end up in a jalopy with rear seats slashed, useless shock absorbers and a stench that’ll have you asking, “Where is that smell coming from?” A typical 30 minute ride to city center was $8 U.S. Avoid the bus system altogether!
One “downside” of the trip… and most grotesque - toilets, toilet paper and waste. Lima’s disregard or inability to manage its waste is quite concerning. See that waste basket? Yep, that’s where the toilet paper lands when you’re finished. Flushing “the paper” is highly discouraged throughout the city and beyond. That is all I have to say about that!
Another ‘downside’ that shouldn’t discourage you is the undrinkable tap water. Boil it for 1-3 minutes in a pan or tea kettle, and it’s ready to drink plain or mixed. The higher the altitude, the longer you boil it. Bottled water is your best option. Stay hydrated. The Lima heat and humidity requires it. Additional tip: It’s easier to avoid swallowing shower water than you might think!
Peru’s air quality is the worst in Latin America. Older vehicles and buses that fill crowded streets emit high levels of carbon monoxide. Trails of smoke billow out of the exhaust pipes, leaving no doubt how unhealthy it is to breathe the air here. The air quality does improve the closer you are to the beach. It’s recommended that you get lodging in the coastal region of the city.
